Peter Philips Steps Down as Creative Director of Chanel Make-Up

Peter Phillips

PETER PHILIPS after five years at the creative helm of the Chanel Make-up division has stepped down as creative director of Chanel Make-Up as reported by a recent company statement. 

Five years of coming up with some of the beauty world's favourite nail polish colours (Jade, Particuliere and Mimosa were all the creations of this creative mind), formulating some truly one-of a kind products and coming up with some of Chanel's most fabulous catwalk make-up looks, Philips is swapping his official title for a contributing artist role.

Peter Phillips backstage, Chanel catwalk

"Peter Philips, as creative director of Chanel Make-up, has brought his talent, creativity and vision to Chanel make-up and made women dream, the world over. After five successful years, Peter Philips has decided to return to a more independent position continuing his work as an artist collaborating with the best photographers, stylists and models for editorials and projects such as Chanel fashion shows," read a statement from the brand.

Pic credit: Chanel

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Rihanna Brings High Street Fashion to London Show

Rihanna

RIHANNA launched her first clothing line with British high-street retailer River Island on Saturday, adding A-list glitz to the British leg of the international fashion circuit reported Reuters 16/02/13.

The fashion credentials of the British high street have flourished in recent years as more household clothing brands inch onto the catwalks of major fashion centres.

Models strutted in a line through a tiered catwalk of five square compartments at Rihanna's show, pausing in each to showcase midriff-bearing mesh tops and yellow shift dresses.

Denim tops teamed with slouchy jeans and monochrome dresses with thigh-high slits mirrored the Barbados-born singer's dressed-down but raunchy style.

Rihanna for River Island

"I loved it - it's so Rihanna, it's got Rihanna's name all over it," Los Angeles model Tolula Adeyemi said in the crowd.

Rihanna, a chart-topping R&B star, has already made a foray into fashion, teaming up with Armani Jeans in 2011.

With Britain facing the prospect of a triple-dip recession, many retailers have been forced to grapple for consumers facing income squeezes. The start of 2013 has seen a number of retail casualties, such as the demise of music retailer HMV.

But fashion industry and marketing experts warn A-list credentials are not always a sure-fire strategy for long-term brand success, and the haute-couture setting of the launch could even alienate Rihanna's target mass-market high-street audience.

Rihanna for River Island

Mary Ellen Muckerman, head of strategy at international brand consultancy Wolff Olins, said it was not hard for celebrities to create buzz.

"The celebrity has a built-in network to get word out and raise the profile of the collaboration very quickly, but what collaborations do struggle with is probably sustainability - how can this not just be 15 minutes of fame," Muckerman said.

STAR SELLING POWER

The boyish designs are Rihanna's first with River Island, a clothing chain that traces its history on Britain's high streets back more than 60 years and is known for its youthful clientele.

The crowd-drawing clothing line between British retailer Topshop and supermodel Kate Moss in 2007 is widely credited with initiating the burst of celebrity lines onto Britain's high street, paving the way for Madonna and Kylie Minogue.

"Celebrity dressing drives a large part of the industry. If celebrities are wearing it, there is confidence that you and I will want to wear those clothes as well," said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council.

British value chain New Look said it attributed sales of just under 3 million pounds ($4.66 million) to its Kelly Brook line in 2012. The retailer reported group sales from its 1,100 international stores at 710.5 million pounds ($1.10 billion) for the first half of 2012.

Clothing retailer N Brown said its line with former England cricketer Freddie Flintoff accounted for around 5 percent of sales for menswear brand Jacamo and had spurred a ripple effect.

"The wider halo effect is what I see as being the real benefit of using a celebrity," said Paul Kendrick, marketing director at N Brown.

HIGH STREET, HIGH FASHION

London Fashion Week, best known for cutting-edge design, is also hosting upmarket retailer Whistles, as chains increasingly share the runway schedule with up-and-coming designers such as Mary Katrantzou and Holly Fulton.

British Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman said in the British press this week she viewed the high-street foray into fashion as positive, but warned there was a saturation point.

Wendy Hein, a lecturer in marketing at Birkbeck College, said there was a mismatch between London's high-fashion catwalks and the high-street label.

Rihanna Arriving In London for The Fashion show

"River Island is very much a high-street retail brand and wouldn't have that much of a connection to high fashion and couture," Hein said. "I think considering this mix, there's a danger here in terms of how this is being presented to high-fashion audiences and markets.

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Lanvin Opens Its First US Men's Flagship in US

LANVIN marked the opening of its new men’s boutique at 807 Madison Avenue with a party on Tuesday evening. The crowd, which included Theophilus London, Monique and a host of others. Designers Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz always energise their Lanvin menswear collections with power and style and have the rappers and actors queuing up to promote the brand.

Lanvin First US Men's Flagship Store

Located in a three-story townhouse on Manhattan's Upper East Side, the store has a stripped-down, modernist feel thanks to MR Architecture + Decor and Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz, who worked closely with the firm on the design. The striking lighting and straightforward displays are clean, almost clinical in their presentation — a nice contrast to Lanvin's more Baroque offerings, and an equally nice departure from retail's recent exploitation of log cabin-y clichés.

LANVIN navy torsade dress shoes Fall/Winter 2012

Lanvin sneakers already have a cult following and find a perfect home to display their beauty on the entrance level, to the steely gray made-to-measure studio and V.I.P. lounge on the top floor (not accessible to passersby interested in merely browsing), to the apothecary-esque display of vitrines filled with bow ties and the inset shelving units exhibiting meticulously arranged stacks of shirts and an assortment of bags (green leather and snakeskin were in heavy rotation this season).

Lanvin First US Men's Flagship Store, interior

The 5,800-square-foot space will carry Lanvin's forward-thinking ready-to-wear collections in addition to more traditional suiting options, and features architectural details that mirror the clothing's luxurious yet restrained appeal: a chocolate-colored Macassar ebony wood staircase, an Art Deco-style chandelier, and beige suede walls, to name a few. The perfect playground for those who can afford to shop there, or those who just want to pretend they can.

LANVIN Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 Paris Fashion Week

LANVIN Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 Paris Fashion Week

LANVIN Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 Paris Fashion Week

LANVIN Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 Paris Fashion Week

LANVIN Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 Paris Fashion Week

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Lanvin men's store,
807 Madison Avenue at
68th Street, 212-812-2866;
Monday through Saturday 10:00 a.m — 6:00 p.m.

Pic credit: Lanvin

Tom Ford Collaborates with Justin Timberlake

Tom Ford

TOM FORD The American designer has created a collection of bespoke suits for the singer's new song, Suit & Tie, and also styled the video.

Timberlake is no stranger to the world of fashion himself. A designer in his own right, the singer regularly tops best-dressed lists although he doesn't always wear his own label, William Rast

Justin Timberlake

Now the newlywed singer is paying homage to the fashion industry (and Frank Sinatra) with his latest tune, Suit & Tie, which features suits created exclusively for the singer by Ford.

The American fashion designer, who also styled Timberlake for the promotional artwork, is famous for his bespoke men's tailoring.

Justin Timberlake in the video for Suit & Tie

The new single is Timberlake's first musical endeavour in nearly six years and is accompanied by a black and white video that sees the singer adopt a suave 50's suited style.

Tom said: 'I adore Justin. He has innate style and enormous talent. It has been such a pleasure and honour to work with him throughout this entire creative process.'

Timberlake can be seen in a Tom Ford tuxedo with satin peak lapels, pique front shirt and oversized bow tie on the official cover art for the Jay-Z assisted track.

The 31-year-old crooner is also seen in luxury Tom Ford garb in the video, including a three-piece suit and a black lapel two-piece tuxedo.

One of Ford's tuxedo jackets is also featured on the cover of Timberlake's new single

Tom, 51, is also said to have contributed made-to-measure tailoring and accessories for the singer's artwork for comeback album, 'The 20/20 Experience', which will be released in March.

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Tommy Hilfiger Goes Upmarket

Tommy Hilfiger

TOMMY HILFIGER the American fashion brand owned by PVH Corp has re-launched its first luxury Tailored collection. Along with an exclusive party in London, followed by another in the brand’s flagship on the Piazza degli Antinori during Pitti Uomo in Florence – such was the setting Tommy Hilfiger chose to baptize his first Tailored collection, now entirely produced in-house. The designer and founder of the American brand, owned by PVH Corp., traveled from London to Florence the next day to enjoy the collection he holds so dear to his heart in the peace and quiet of an incognito visit.

“I love this!” said the famous designer met on site while ruffling through the silky cashmere jackets. “I want to buy everything! This is the first time in company history that we are taking ‘tailored’ so seriously. This project will help raise the brand. Today everyone is mixing styles. You can easily wear jeans with a very elegant jacket,” said Tommy Hilfiger. 

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, Autumn-Winter 2013/2014

This menswear-only, urban line based on suits has been sold in Europe under license since 1998 by the Swiss company Holy Fashion Group but was completely reintegrated into Tommy Hilfiger in January 2013. To develop this project, the company established the Tommy Hilfiger Tailored division last year, entrusting operations to Michael Berngruber, who it hired away from Boss Selection, the upscale line of German brand Hugo Boss. 

“This is a very serious project. All product development is now being done in-house and is being handled by a dedicated team of 36 people. We have reviewed the fit, the cuts and done some serious work on the quality and fabrics, which are 90% Italian and created exclusively for us. If you sell a piece at 400 euros, it must be perfect,” said Michael Berngruber. 

The Tailored collection is manufactured in Italy, Portugal and Eastern Europe and the line has been expanded. Tommy Hilfiger has specifically called on large Italian fabric manufacturers such as Loro Piana, Zegna and Lanificio Luigi Colombo. “We had never worked with cashmere before,” said Berngruber, vice president of Tommy Hilfiger Tailored. The collection now includes high quality pieces made of cashmere, such as suits, sweaters, knitted ties and pants in cashmere/denim. 

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, Autumn-Winter 2013/2014

“On one hand, we revised and improved the basic pieces in Tailored that we will maintain at the same price, at the same time moving closer to luxury. But it is still affordable luxury,” said Michael Berngruber. The Tailored collection now represents turnover of about 50 million in Europe, or 8 to 10% of Tommy Hilfiger sales. The goal is to reach 15% or even higher.

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Balmain Eyewear Hits Stores

Balmain Metal Framed Aviator Sunglasses

BALMAIN is entering the eyewear sector. With the exception of a small capsule collection, this is the first time Balmain has unveiled a full range of optical and sunwear offerings in the U.S. via a partnership with L’Amy Group, which designs and distributes all eyewear for the French brand.

Originally signed in September 2011 and slated for a spring 2012 release into the market, the line launched in Europe and Asia for fall 2012 and has expanded to the U.S. for the spring.

The collection contains 43 silhouettes total — 11 optical and 14 sun styles for women and 11 optical and seven sun styles for men, with each frame available in three to four colorways. Prices at retail range from $260 to $400.

Balmain

The majority of the glasses are fashioned from handmade acetate and metal, and include elements like titanium or gold hardware and accents in the form of pyramid or star studs. Colors are mainly black, brown and tortoise, but there are pops of ivory and red throughout.

The line is now available at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores, Shopbop.com and elite optical boutiques around the country.

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Escada Prepares For E-Commerce Launch

ESCADA the Munich based luxury fashion label announced it is adding e-commerce to its retail network this year.

Alexandra Valtin, Director of Marketing, Communications and Licenses will be co-heading the venture with Director of E-Commerce, Tonio Frühauf.

Daniel Wingate Escada

Before working for Escada in late 2008, Alexandra Valtin was head of Business Development at Hugo Boss and Managing Director at MyTheresa, an online luxury boutique.
“The site will go live in Germany and Austria in the spring and before the end of the year will be available in other European countries in their respective languages. For 2014, we envisage reaching further afar, launching in China, Russia or in the United States,” Valtin commented.

The e-store will feature the brand’s main line as well as its sport line and accessories.
To manage the project, Escada will work with Hermes NexTec, a company specialised in e-commerce solutions.

Spring-summer collection 2009 by Escada

“The site will go live in Germany and Austria in the spring and before the end of the year will be available in other European countries in their respective languages. For 2014, we envisage reaching further afar, lauching in China, Russia or in the United States,” Valtin commented. The e-store will carry the brand’s main line as well as its sport line and accessories. To manage the project, Escada has enlisted the help of Hermes NexTec, a company specialised in e-commerce solutions.

Spring-summer collection 2009 by Escada

Escada will not be participating in the Berlin Fashion Week, where it normally shows Escada Sport.Projects, including the e-store and the opening of two flagships in Berlin and Frankfurt, contributing factors to the luxury label's absence.

Pic credit: Escada

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