Tommy Hilfiger Goes Upmarket

Tommy Hilfiger

TOMMY HILFIGER the American fashion brand owned by PVH Corp has re-launched its first luxury Tailored collection. Along with an exclusive party in London, followed by another in the brand’s flagship on the Piazza degli Antinori during Pitti Uomo in Florence – such was the setting Tommy Hilfiger chose to baptize his first Tailored collection, now entirely produced in-house. The designer and founder of the American brand, owned by PVH Corp., traveled from London to Florence the next day to enjoy the collection he holds so dear to his heart in the peace and quiet of an incognito visit.

“I love this!” said the famous designer met on site while ruffling through the silky cashmere jackets. “I want to buy everything! This is the first time in company history that we are taking ‘tailored’ so seriously. This project will help raise the brand. Today everyone is mixing styles. You can easily wear jeans with a very elegant jacket,” said Tommy Hilfiger. 

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, Autumn-Winter 2013/2014

This menswear-only, urban line based on suits has been sold in Europe under license since 1998 by the Swiss company Holy Fashion Group but was completely reintegrated into Tommy Hilfiger in January 2013. To develop this project, the company established the Tommy Hilfiger Tailored division last year, entrusting operations to Michael Berngruber, who it hired away from Boss Selection, the upscale line of German brand Hugo Boss. 

“This is a very serious project. All product development is now being done in-house and is being handled by a dedicated team of 36 people. We have reviewed the fit, the cuts and done some serious work on the quality and fabrics, which are 90% Italian and created exclusively for us. If you sell a piece at 400 euros, it must be perfect,” said Michael Berngruber. 

The Tailored collection is manufactured in Italy, Portugal and Eastern Europe and the line has been expanded. Tommy Hilfiger has specifically called on large Italian fabric manufacturers such as Loro Piana, Zegna and Lanificio Luigi Colombo. “We had never worked with cashmere before,” said Berngruber, vice president of Tommy Hilfiger Tailored. The collection now includes high quality pieces made of cashmere, such as suits, sweaters, knitted ties and pants in cashmere/denim. 

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, Autumn-Winter 2013/2014

“On one hand, we revised and improved the basic pieces in Tailored that we will maintain at the same price, at the same time moving closer to luxury. But it is still affordable luxury,” said Michael Berngruber. The Tailored collection now represents turnover of about 50 million in Europe, or 8 to 10% of Tommy Hilfiger sales. The goal is to reach 15% or even higher.

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Balmain Eyewear Hits Stores

Balmain Metal Framed Aviator Sunglasses

BALMAIN is entering the eyewear sector. With the exception of a small capsule collection, this is the first time Balmain has unveiled a full range of optical and sunwear offerings in the U.S. via a partnership with L’Amy Group, which designs and distributes all eyewear for the French brand.

Originally signed in September 2011 and slated for a spring 2012 release into the market, the line launched in Europe and Asia for fall 2012 and has expanded to the U.S. for the spring.

The collection contains 43 silhouettes total — 11 optical and 14 sun styles for women and 11 optical and seven sun styles for men, with each frame available in three to four colorways. Prices at retail range from $260 to $400.

Balmain

The majority of the glasses are fashioned from handmade acetate and metal, and include elements like titanium or gold hardware and accents in the form of pyramid or star studs. Colors are mainly black, brown and tortoise, but there are pops of ivory and red throughout.

The line is now available at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores, Shopbop.com and elite optical boutiques around the country.

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Escada Prepares For E-Commerce Launch

ESCADA the Munich based luxury fashion label announced it is adding e-commerce to its retail network this year.

Alexandra Valtin, Director of Marketing, Communications and Licenses will be co-heading the venture with Director of E-Commerce, Tonio Frühauf.

Daniel Wingate Escada

Before working for Escada in late 2008, Alexandra Valtin was head of Business Development at Hugo Boss and Managing Director at MyTheresa, an online luxury boutique.
“The site will go live in Germany and Austria in the spring and before the end of the year will be available in other European countries in their respective languages. For 2014, we envisage reaching further afar, launching in China, Russia or in the United States,” Valtin commented.

The e-store will feature the brand’s main line as well as its sport line and accessories.
To manage the project, Escada will work with Hermes NexTec, a company specialised in e-commerce solutions.

Spring-summer collection 2009 by Escada

“The site will go live in Germany and Austria in the spring and before the end of the year will be available in other European countries in their respective languages. For 2014, we envisage reaching further afar, lauching in China, Russia or in the United States,” Valtin commented. The e-store will carry the brand’s main line as well as its sport line and accessories. To manage the project, Escada has enlisted the help of Hermes NexTec, a company specialised in e-commerce solutions.

Spring-summer collection 2009 by Escada

Escada will not be participating in the Berlin Fashion Week, where it normally shows Escada Sport.Projects, including the e-store and the opening of two flagships in Berlin and Frankfurt, contributing factors to the luxury label's absence.

Pic credit: Escada

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Eva Herzigova New Face of Dior

Eva Herzigova New Face of Dior

EVA HERZIGOVA - Czech supermodel, is the new face of Dior's luxury anti-ageing skincare line, Capture Totale range. Filling the shoes of Sharon Stone, who had been the face of Dior beauty since 2006, was never going to be easy. Enter Eva Herzigova. 

Eva may best be remembered for being responsible for many a car being momentarily distracted from the huge billboards  during the Wonderbra 1994 campaign not to mention some considerable inrease in female bust measurements.

Eva Herzigova in 1994 Wonderbra campaign

The campaign by Steven Meisel highlights the model’s sensual beauty and radiant skin to advertise Dior’s line of anti-aging products Capture Totale.

"Eva Herzigova proves to be the perfect embodiment of the Dior Capture Totale woman: a radiant, dazzlingly feminine woman, who reflects a passion for life and a deep desire to be beautiful," said a Dior spokesperson.

Eva Herzigova making the behind-the-scenes video

Dior has released a behind-the-scenes video of its campaign with Eva Herzigova. She will be the brand ambassador through 2013.

The supermodel of the 1990s, who is pregnant with her third child, will celebrate her 40th birthday  in 2013 also.

Pic credit: Christian Dior

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Tiffany & Co and Elsa Peretti Extend Partnership For 20 Years

Elsa Peretti

TIFFANY & CO  will continue its relationship with world-renowned jewellery designer Elsa Peretti, according to a U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission.

Under the agreement, the international luxury retail jeweller will continue to be the exclusive sales outlet for jewellery created by Peretti. Since 1974, Tiffany has been the sole licensee for the intellectual property rights (Peretti Intellectual Property) necessary to make and sell Peretti-designed products under her trademarks.

The new agreement, which has a term of 20 years, was finalised on December 27, 2012, according to the 8K SEC filing. Under the amended terms, “Peretti grants Tiffany an exclusive license, in all of the countries in which Peretti-designed jewellery and products are currently sold, to make, have made, advertise and sell these items, which are made in conformance to Peretti’s designs and bear her trademarks.”

Elsa Peretti

Peretti’s jewellery—which specialises in relatively simple figures, such as open hearts, teardrops and rounded shapes that are striking in its execution—is among Tiffany’s most popular brands. Back in May 2012, Peretti was rumoured to be considering “retiring” from her 35+ year relationship with Tiffany & Co. and taking her beloved beans and hearts with her, which accounted for 10 percent of the retailer’s net sales in 2009, 2010 and 2011.

As part of the agreement, on December 31, 2012, Tiffany paid a one-time fee of more than $47.2 million to Peretti. In addition, Peretti, 72, will receive a basic annual royalty fee of $450,000 for use of Peretti Intellectual Property ($9 million dollars over 20 years) and 5 percent of net sales of Peretti jewellery. If Peretti jewellery continues to amount to 10 percent of total net sales for Tiffany, this could amount to another $18 million per year for Peretti. The one-time payment does not reduce future royalties.

Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Teardrop pendant

In May, 2012, it appeared that the long-time relationship between the two parties was coming to an end. In an SEC filing, Tiffany said the two sides were unable to agree on a price for Tiffany to purchase the intellectual property rights of Peretti. Peretti’s advisors told Tiffany that she’d “consider exercising her right to terminate the License Agreement,” according to the May 23 document. Under the terms of the agreement at the time, either party could terminate the agreement with written notice.

The new agreement is terminable by Peretti “only in the event of a material breach by Tiffany or upon a change of control of Tiffany,” according to the SEC filing. Tiffany can terminate the agreement “only in the event of a material breach by Ms. Peretti or following an attempt by Ms. Peretti to revoke the exclusive licence.”

Tiffany & Co Elsa_Peretti Open Heart pendant

If the agreement is terminated, Tiffany would have an exclusive right for one year to sell any Peretti-designed products on hand or on order. For at least an additional six months afterward, Tiffany would have the exclusive right to sell any Peretti-designed products on hand, subject to Peretti’s right to purchase the remaining products.

In addition, Peretti retains ownership of the Peretti Intellectual Property and exercises approval and consultation rights with respect to important aspects of the promotion, display, manufacture and merchandising of licensed products. The agreement further requires Tiffany to display the licensed products in stores, to devote a portion of its advertising budget to the promotion of Peretti products, to increase the inventory of non-jewellery licensed products (that inventory averaged approximately $4 million during the past 60 months) and to protect the use and registration of the Peretti Intellectual Property.

During the term of the agreement, Peretti may not sell, lease or otherwise dispose of the Peretti Intellectual Property unless it has the approval of Tiffany. The agreement also provides that any heir, estate, trustee or permitted successor or assignee of Peretti will be bound by its terms.

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Christian Louboutin, YSL Suit Dismissed

Christian Louboutin

After 18 months of legal wrangling a Manhattan federal district court entered a final order Thursday 27 December, confirming that Christian Louboutin has no further claims against Yves Saint Laurent over red monochrome shoes and dismissing the lawsuit.

You may remember from our initial posts, Louboutin Tries To Stop Dior From Making Red-Soled Shoes(July), then our follow on story, Christian Louboutin loses round one of red sole battle with Yves Saint Laurent (August) it seemed that the drama was going to continue with neither side giving in. 

It was once presumed in our UPDATE: Christian Louboutin Sues Yves Saint Laurent(July); Yves Saint Laurent may drop the case as the bad publicity that surrounded their action to inital make this attempt did them no favours within the industry. When YSL,  a month later, dropped its claims against Louboutin it came as no great surprise.

YSL Trib Too, left, and Louboutin Bambou

Earlier a New York federal appeals court in September backed the validity of Louboutin’s red-sole trademark but said the French shoemaker would only be able to protect its mark when it comes to red-soled shoes with contrasting uppers. That decision gave YSL the right to continue selling its monochrome red pump. The luxury giants squared up again and the case moved back to a New York federal district court for further evaluation of YSL’s counterclaims.

We can now report it has finally come to an official end with Thursday’s court order merely confirms closure of the litigation between the parties.

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Elie Saab Opens in Geneva

Elie Saab

The store officially opened 08/12/2012 and is showcasing the designer’s pre-fall and fall 2012 ready-to-wear collections as well as shoes, bags and other accessories.

In 1982, seven years into the Lebanese civil war, Israel invaded Lebanon and laid siege to Beirut. In the same year an 18-year-old local prodigy named Elie Saab held his first fashion show and opened his first atelier. His reputation spread quickly and his business grew, first in Lebanon, then across the Middle East, then around the rest of the world. became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner, Halle Berry, in 2002 (see picture below). 

Halle Berry in burgundy Elie Saab dress at the 74th Annual Academy Awards

The 1,700-square-foot outlet at number 10 of the prestigious Quai Général Guisan, overlooking Lake Geneva, spans two floors and was designed by Saab in collaboration with architect Chakib Richani, who also worked on the other stores in the brand’s retail network. 

Elie Saab Geneva Boutique

The building retains its original facade with two arched shop-front windows, the only direct light source for the space, which Saab and Richani “sculpted” to allow for maximum height and luminosity, highlighting minimalist fittings, the brand said.

Elie Saab Spring 2013

Elie Saab Spring 2013

Elie Saab Spring 2012

Elie Saab Spring 2012

Elie Saab Spring 2012

Elie Saab Spring 2012

Elie Saab Spring 2012

The Geneva unit is Elie Saab’s fifth freestanding store, adding to boutiques in Paris, Hong Kong, Dubai and Beirut. It also has shops-in-shop in London and Mexico City.

Pic Credit: Elie Saab

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Harvey Nichols to Launch Own Brand & Collections

HARVEY NICHOLS, luxury department announced at Drapers Fashion Summit, the store  will launch its own brand and collections by launching an own-label brand as part of a new strategy to boost sales and turnover. 

Harvey Nichols, Wool Week Promotion

Chief Executive Joseph Wan told attendees of the Drapers Fashion Summit that: “I am talking about creating a brand that might have a certain name or be a certain line but that has been created exclusively for us.” He went on to say, “Buying third party brands means we only earn the retail margin,” Wan explained. “With this I see a lot of potential. I am not talking about exclusively launching menswear, womenswear or accessories under the Harvey Nichols name,” he added. “I am talking about creating a brand that might have a certain name or be a certain line but that has been created exclusively for us.”

Wan did not give any further specifics, stating that the process was still at “the very beginning”. But he revealed that early next year he will visit the production factories to ensure that the quality and production capacity of the factories is up to scratch.

This strategy is one of four pillars to drive growth in the next five years.

The other elements including seeking product from further afield in order to attract new customers, developing as a truly multi-channel fashion business, and expanding further internationally.

Harvey Nichols is broadening its price architecture to encompass a wider range of product and is also planning to introduce big name luxury brands such as Chanel to attract more luxury tourist shoppers.

“We have to redesign the store in Knightsbridge to enable us to do this,” he said. “We’re much smaller than Harrods or Selfridges so the way we set out the store to maximise space is very important. It is all about editing.”

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Miranda Kerr is Ambassador for Mango’s S/S 13 Campaign

Supermodel signed as the face of branded fashion retailer's s/s 13 campaign.

Miranda Kerr is Ambassador for Mango’s S/S 13 campaign

MIRANDA KERR, Australian model is taking over from her predecessor Kate Moss and will be the new face of MANGO Spring/Summer 2013 campaign. Kate Moss, Isabeli Fontana, Scarlett Johansson, Penélope Cruz, Milla Jovovich, Lizzy Jagger, Karolina Kurkova, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Inés Sastre, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Diane Kruger have  previously fronted the brand's campaigns.

Born in Sydney on 20 April 1983, she made her debut in the fashion world at the age of just 13. Considered a fashion icon, she has modelled on the most important catwalks worldwide and in late 2006 she got the job of angel for lingerie brand Victoria’s Secret. She has also been the face of many brands including Maybelline New York and Levi’s, and has appeared on the cover of major fashion magazines.

Miranda Kerr is Ambassador for Mango’s S/S 13 campaign

She married British actor Orlando Bloom, the father of her son Flynn, in 2010 and is currently regarded as one of the most attractive women in the world, with People magazine also including her on the 2012 best dressed list.

During the shoot for our advertising campaign, which took place in New York in mid November, the model said: "I am delighted to be collaborating with MANGO for the Spring/Summer 2013 season. We had a great time shooting the campaign and it was very easy working with the entire team. What’s more, MANGO is a brand that I love. You always find the perfect garment for every occasion!"

Miranda Kerr is Ambassador for Mango’s S/S 13 campaign 

Photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin were in charge of the photo shoot. The excellent team also included stylist Géraldine Saglio, make-up artist Lisa Butler and hairdresser Christiaan Houtenbos.

Mango's s/s 13 campaign will have a strong presence on television and billboards, as well as in printed press, magazines and online media.

Pic credit: Mango

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Adidas Signs Selena Gomez for Neo label

Selena Gomez for Neo label

The Adidas NEO Label has signed Singer and actress Selena Gomez as the new global style icon for Adidas and guest designer.  Which means Selena Gomez is going to be designing shoes.   It’s not enough to be a music star and a television and film star, but now Gomez is adding designer to her resume.  

Adidas put out a promotional video with Selena in it with the tag line that says ‘Live Your Style‘.

According to an Adidas press release:

As adidas NEO Label's new style ambassador, Selena will inspire teens with the label’s fresh looks through a three-year partnership until end-2015. As well as sporting her favorite NEO looks, Selena will make appearances for the label in major markets throughout 2013 and 2014 and share NEO's latest news, designs and collections through her social media networks. She will front NEO’s seasonal campaigns under its “Live Your Style” positioning, starting with Spring/Summer 2013 to debut in February 2013.

Wait a minute -- that sounds an awful lot like the press release we got last month, which went a little something like this:

As Adidas NEO Label's new global style icon, Justin Bieber will inspire teens with the label’s fresh looks through a two-year partnership until end-2014. As well as sporting his favorite NEO looks, Justin will make appearances for the label in major markets throughout 2013 and share NEO's latest news and collections through his social media networks. He will front NEO’s seasonal campaigns under its “Live Your Style” positioning, starting with Spring/Summer 2013 to debut in February.

Selena Gomez for Neo label

So what's the deal? On the one hand, it makes sense for Selena and Justin to be shilling for the same brand -- they both have massive reach with the same teen demographic and are arguably more popular as a pair than individuals. On the other hand, the timing of the announcement, about a month after Bieber's, seems suspicious. 

The pair reportedly split earlier this month but have seemingly reconciled already... and sources have reported that Gomez is sticking around simply because Bieber is "good for her brand."

Pic credit: Adidas

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